Category Archives: mtnEDUCATION

Mt Washington can be climbed after all!

If you are a frequent follower of our blog, you know by now that last weekend didn’t turn out exactly how we would have liked. The weather made for terrible summit conditions, hence no one stepped foot on Mt Washington’s summit. This weekend started out with a little more of the same. We got a late start on Saturday March 3rd with a great bunch of climbers. The morning consisted of nice drizzly rain which allowed for no good views beyond the trees and snowy highway that is the Tuckerman Ravine Trail. The rain tested our discipline as we had to keep our goretex layer on regardless of how much we were sweating while hiking into the Lions Head Route in above freezing temperatures. I would much prefer zero degrees and snowing than 35 degrees and raining. At the first break we had a climber’s knee pop out of socket, which she calmly popped back in after explaining that it happens quite a bit. Unfortunately her day was over at that point and Jamie descended with her. After dropping her off at the visitors center he then sprinted back up the mountain to catch the rest of us. As we broke treeline, the rain had stopped (woohoo!) and the clouds had lifted to a higher elevation so that we could now see Pinkham Notch and Wildcat Ski Area. The ceiling of clouds left a few neat looking stragglers which I was sure to capture in the photos below. Two more climbers decided that they had reached their limits and Jamie again descended with them. I pushed on with a group of 5. We reached Lions Head at 2:30PM, much too late to attempt the summit. The winds were around 55mph at Lions Head and we saw many parties turning around in the Alpine Garden. We also heard reports of near whiteout conditions near the summit as the crust was starting to be ripped up by the wind and thrown into the air. Although the next day we also heard that it wasn’t bad at all passed the Alpine Garden.. Either way, 2:30PM is no time to be going for the summit. We took some photos and video and headed down the mountain to big burgers at the Muddy Moose in North Conway. The summit of Mt Washington remains elusive in the past two weeks.

The forecast for Sunday March 4th promised to be a summit day. Low winds (40mph) and mostly clear skies. We climbed quickly up the Tux trail, feeling extra motivated by the good weather. We made good time up to the Lions Head Route. For some reason, the fitting of crampons etc took awhile today which put us behind schedule slightly. 10 minutes up the trail, we had crampon issues again. We decided to climb the left side of the “Hillary Step” just using the fixed handrail to aid our ascent. No traffic jam today! We ascended the steep sections quickly and continued up to treeline. Jamie was ahead with 6 climbers and I had stayed behind with two climbers. When I arrived at treeline, it was apparent that we were moving too slow to summit, so Jamie took the 4 climbers who felt strong enough to pick up the pace and headed off for the summit. I took a long break at treeline with the other 4 and then we leisurely made our way up to Lions Head where we were delighted to find a 10-20 mph breeze. We hung out on Lions Head for about 40 minutes and watched the others ascend the summit cone to Split Rock. On our way down, we took off the crampons and glissaded down parts of the Lions Head Trail, which was a blast but short lived. Jamie’s summit group made the summit at 2:50PM after battling through some leg cramps. They reported a 10-20mph breeze on top, which is calm even by summer standards! Mt Washington can be climbed after all!

Next weekend’s forecast is calling for sunny skies… here’s to hoping for more summitteers!

Interesting patterns in the trees along the Huntington Ravine Fire Road.

Climbing out of the trees

Really neat clouds in the notch

The March 3rd crew on Lions Head

Despite the winds, the day ended fairly nice

March 4th Summit Team

Lots of Climbing!

Its been awhile since our last post and we have been super busy! We have put 15 more people on the summit of Mt. Washington! Instead of posting about each climb individually, I am going to summarize the past two weekends.
On Friday Feb 17th, we had pretty crummy weather. The group made it halfway between treeline and Lions Head before wisely calling it a day due to high winds and limited visibility. Sunday Feb 19th was forecasted to be clear and sunny with mild winds. It started that way, but by the time we got to Lions Head, we were socked in with about 300ft visibilty. We pressed on, placing wands along the route to follow on the way down. We made the summit in 45mph winds and about 50ft visibilty on the summit. The group got hit with some higher gusts while on top and the temp was low enough to frostnip one climbers nose. We warmed it up with a bare hand and had no more incidents. The wands proved to be an important item in the pack as we followed them back to Lions Head where visibility came back a little. 7 climbers made the summit on Feb 19th. The following day, we were back at it with a new group. Despite cloudy conditions and 45mph winds, we made the summit WITH ALL 8 CLIMBERS! Awesome job guys and girls! Its always really fulfilling getting everyone to the top. We spent all of about 45 seconds at the summit sign before retreating back to the Adams summit building.
The following weekend on Feb 25th, Mt. Washington was not happy about our previous weekend success and delivered the worst weather we have seen guiding this winter. Saturday was cloudy, snowing hard, and maintained a 45-50mph wind just above treeline. I’m almost positive not a single sole made it to the summit as we saw group after group returning from 100ft past treeline with their tails between their legs. When the wind blew the fresh snow the climber ahead of you nearly disappeared. True Mt. Washington conditions. Despite only making it about 1/3 of the way between treeline and Lions Head, we got to experience some awesome weather and get some great video. Saturday’s wind continued into Sunday and increased by about 10mph. The snow and clouds disappeared and we were greeted by 140 mile visibility. Despite the high winds, we made it to Lions Head before deciding to spin it around. Two brave souls continued across the Alpine Garden with Brett to get into 60-70mph winds before following us down. Mt Washington wins this round.
All in all it has been a great couple of weekends with a lot of climbers and many newcomers to the sport. We are super happy they chose us to climb with and hope they return soon! Enjoy the photos!

Above the "Hillary Step" on the Lions Head Winter Route

February 19th group on the summit!

February 20th Group on the summit... all 8!

Rappelling the right side of the "Hillary Step"

Sums up the weather on Feb 25th. -courtesy of Arianna Photopoulos

Feb 25th Winds

February 26th - Coming down from Lions Head

Crawford Notch Climbing

Here are a few pictures from our day of climbing in Crawford Notch. We climbed Left Hand Monkey Wrench (WI 3) to the East Face Slabs (WI 3). We planned to climb Upper Hitchcock but a group beat us to it. Next time we’ll wake up earlier!

Left Hand Monkey Wrench

Nice view of Rt. 302 from the East Face Slabs

Curtis on a V-thread rappel on the East Face Slabs