All posts by NEM Guides

Rock Climbing in Oregon! July 19-21.

We are excited to offer rock climbing at Smith Rock in Oregon this July! Join us for a long weekend of climbing from July 19th-21st. We keep a low guide to client ratio of 1 guide for every 2 climbers to maximize safety and minimize risk. If you have ever wondered what it would be like to climb out West, this is a great trip for beginners and experienced climbers alike. No experience required. Let our guides show you an unforgettable 3 days of climbing! $400/person with gear included. Not included: airfare, transportation (can be arranged however), food, lodging.
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From MountainProject.com:
Smith Rock is Oregon’s premier rock climbing destination, and one of the best sport climbing areas in the United States. This world-renowned sport climbing mecca has more than once been at the focal point of the climbing world. Extensive development took place in the 1960s, 70s, and 80s by locals and international climbers alike, who put up scores of classic climbs on the tuff and basalt cliffs; development continues to this day with new moderates and cutting-edge routes going up each year. Ranging from classic beginner routes to hardcore testpieces on a wide variety of rock, there is truly something here for everyone. Although best known for its sport climbing traditional climbers can find plenty to be excited about here as well.

Located in the high desert in central Oregon, Smith Rock State Park’s cliffs and hillsides take a commanding presence over the surrounding terrain. The main cliffs are made of volcanic welded tuff, and surrounding bands of columnar basalt lie above the winding Crooked River.

Smith Rock is a perfect weekend getaway for residents of the Portland area as well as a worthy destination for anybody exploring the West’s climbing. The prominent walls overlooking the Crooked River are home to many of Smith Rock’s most famous routes, but for those seeking some solitude and adventure there is plenty to be found on the back side or among the basalt columns in the Upper and Lower gorge. Monkey Face, perhaps the park’s most recognizable feature, sits proudly on the back side of Smith Rock with spectacular views of the Cascade Mountains and the arid landscape below.

Call today as space is extremely limited!! 978 413 4391. info@nemountaineering.com

Several Sides of Mt. Washington

Saturday we had two climbers for Mt Washington. The Mt. Washington Observatory forecasted warm temps, high winds, and freezing rain. We lucked out and the rain never materialized. We flew up the Tuckerman Ravine trail among a large amount of skiers. The weekend brought in a lot of spectators and spring skiers as the Inferno Pentathalon was taking place that day. Once we cut off onto the Lions Head route, we were only joined by two other parties and virtually had the mountain to ourselves. The Lions Head Winter Route was pretty boney. There was dirt in spots but the melt freeze of Spring created quite a bit of ice instead of the snow that covers the trail throughout the winter months.photo Though cloudy above, we had great views into the valley above treeline. photo(1) The going was slow however due to the lack of snow. The usual spring conditions make crampons a nuisance at times and mandatory at others. The steep slopes of the Winter Route called for crampons however much of the rest of the route called for MicroSpikes. After tip-toeing our way up to Lions Head on rock, ice and snow, we were hit by strong winds on the Alpine Garden. Surprise Surprise. As expected they decreased once in the lee of the summit cone. The traverse from the Alpine Garden to Split Rock was in superb condition! Firm snow that was perfect for our crampons to bite into and a welcomed break from the rock that covers all of the highest New England peaks . The firm snow was short lived and we were again on the tedious rock covered with a thin layer of ice from the previous night. We picked our way up to the summit and grabbed the obligatory summit shots. The Northern Presidentials were cloud free.photo(2) Instead of descending the normal route and the way we had ascended, we opted for the snow of the East Snowfields. This proved to be a great choice although it was certainly not a great place for a slide. photo(3) Two snowboarders validated that when one began sliding above us with no way to stop himself. Only after sliding 100 feet into some rocks and shrubbery did he come to a stop. I tried to slow his slide, but my attempt was futile. After deeming that he was indeed OK after his slide, we continued to try and snowboard down the slope! We reached the Alpine Garden without another incident and again opted for snow over rock and headed for Right Gully in Tuckerman Ravine. Somehow the snowboarders appeared again and, yet again, they were above us. We encouraged them not to try and ride the gully as it was too firm and a slide would go unchecked. They ignored and started down after us, sliding their way down and dropping ice on everyone below. After a anxious descent (Knowing that it would not end well had either snowboarder fell), we reached the floor of the Ravine and the recent avalanche debris from the wet slide on April 19th. We had a snack and began the straightforward descent to the car. We had a great day overall and got to see many sides of Mt. Washington from Lions Head, to the Summit Cone, to The Snowfields, and Tuckerman Ravine. Spring is here and our next climb will most likely be in Microspikes.

On a separate note, be sure to subscribe to this blog and also “Like” our Facebook page as we often run deeply discounted climbs as last minute specials and you can only be informed in these two ways.

Last Minute Special

Join us this Saturday 4/20, for a climb of Mt. Washington! Only $99 with all of your rental gear included! Call soon a space is limited.

Checking out the views as the clouds part near the summit.

Checking out the views as the clouds part near the summit.