Recently I posted about my trip to Kalymnos in June of this year. At the end of my trip I put together my top ten list of places I would like visit for rock climbing, however, I never explained why I wanted to climb at those places. So here they are, the rationale for my climbing bucket list:

1. Kalymnos, Greece

I wanted to climb here for a couple of reasons. The first is the fact that it is argued by some to be the sport climbing mecca of the world. I am a sport climber at my roots, so something about those big, beautiful tufas really appealed to me. Plus, being walking distance from the Mediterranean is a bonus. The second reason I wanted to go to Kalymnos was get in touch with my Greek heritage. After a number of days on the island climbing, enjoying Greek cuisine and trying to learn Greek, my partner and I spent several days in Athens taking in the sites and culture of one of the most important civilizations in human history.

2.  Patagonia, Argentina

The sheer immensity and the ominous look of the walls and rock in Patagonia is what draws me here. Patagonia is a true test of a climber’s rock ability. Alpine approaches lend way to massive big wall climbs, sometimes in less than ideal conditions. In Patagonia, all factors come into play. the ability to move fast, to pull hard moves, to layer correctly, to make decisions based on weather and conditions, and to push through adversity are all skills that become important here. I want to go to Patagonia for the experience, and the chance to take everything I have learned about not only rock climbing, but all climbing, and combine it into the adventure of a lifetime. Climbing on perfect granite cliffs would also be a plus.

3. Chamonix, France

To be completely honest, I know little to nothing about Chamonix. From what I can gather, climbing in Chamonix is the adventure of climbing in Patagonia, combined with the luxury of staying in a French chalet. Climbing in Europe is lightyears ahead of climbing in the United State, and has always been that way. Chamonix in particular is a classic example of a European mountain community who has devoted itself entirely to the sport of climbing. There are roadside sport and trad crags, and for those feeling a little more adventurous, chairlifts to the base of alpine rock routes. Who doesnt want to skip the hike take a chairlift to the base of their climb?

4. Ceuse, France

France has obviously been blessed by the rock climbing gods, I would be crazy to not include Ceuse on my list. While the approaches are much longer than Chamonix, and not accessible by chairlift (HUUUGE BUMMER), the limestone crags of Ceuse house some of the world’s hardest sport climbs. This includes Realization, a 5.15a put up by Chris Sharma. Can I climb that hard you ask? Hell no I cannot climb that hard, but I would love the opportunity to push my sport climbing limits at such an inspiring proving ground. And, for those of you trad climbers out there who think there is nothing in Ceuse for you, check out this crazy video of Arnaud Petit climbing Black Bean, 8b, with gear.

5. Squamish, BC, Canada

More sport climbing! Not quite as far away as the other destinations on my list, but I have to give our neighbors in the Great White North some credit for Squamish. There is roadside cragging, huge multi pitch climbs, and of course Canadian hospitality. I have very little experience in Canada except for a family trip to Niagra falls and a short stay in Montreal for the Youth Continental Championships when I was 16. Vancouver which is about an hour and a half drive away, is the cultural center of Canada as well as a city that is frequently listed as a top five worldwide city for livability. So not only does this place have perfect granite, but it’s also an excuse to visit our neighbors to the north and experience what Vancouver has to offer.

6. The Bugaboos, Canada

Another Canadian gemstone, the Bugaboos. Have you ever seen a picture or a video of a granite crack that just looked so perfect that it made your palms sweat at the thought of it? That is what happens when I see pictures of the Beckey Chouinard route, one of the most classic alpine rock climbs on the planet.I saw a video a few months back of alpine climbing in the Bugaboos, and almost bought a plane ticket right there (Ill post the link below). Perfect cracks, alpine approaches, and the chance to see a moose (hey its Canada), all of those things sound awesome to me.

7. Yosemite, California

I shouldnt even have to explain this one. Yosemite; home of the stonemasters, birthplace of modern climbing culture, home of the most iconic cliffs in the world. Enough said.

8. Thailand

This is another destination that I do not know a whole lot about. What I do know however, is that Thailand’s scenic beaches are filled with overhanging sport crags, with even more development happening as we speak. Many climbers who visit Thailand stay in beachside bugaboos in small village communities. I have never been to Asia, and if I could pick one destination to see,  it would be the country of Thailand. Partly because it is affordable (I am on a budget), but also because the culture is something I want to experience. Thailand is often referred to as the “land of smiles” because the traditional Thai greeting involves giving a welcoming smile. Smiles, beachside climbing and accommodations, sounds like a nice vacation to me.

9. Grampians, Australia

I have some unfinished business with Australia. In 2010, as a youth competitor, I qualified for the Youth World Championships as a speed climber. I was suppose to spend a week in a beach house with the U.S team coach and a few other team members. We were going to climb outside and train for the competition. But instead what did I do? I broke my arm playing pickup baseball. Needless to say, I have thought about Australia nonstop for the past five years. Grampians National Park is home to an equal mix of sport and trad climbs on sandstone cliffs. A trip here would not only lend itself to phenomenal climbing, but also the experience of a lifetime in the land down under.

10. Dolomites, Italy

I have been fortunate enough to have the chance to climb a little bit in Italy, in Arco to be exact. I enjoyed every second of it. Amazing limestone, beautiful scenery, and Italian food and wine to recharge after a long day. The Dolomites are one of the most beautiful collections of mountains in the world, and on top of their beauty they are also rich in climbing history. Dolomite climbing could include cragging at a sport or trad area, or just like Chamonix, taking a lift to the base of huge alpine rock climbs (those Europeans really have it figured out). A destination that definitely calls my name and earns a spot on my top ten.

 
When I put this list together on the plane home from Kalymnos, I was a little sad. I was coming home and I knew it would be a while before I was able to go on another big trip. But after having sat down to write a more descriptive list  for all you NEM fans out there to enjoy, I got pretty excited. Partly because I spent a rainy afternoon looking at climbing pictures and videos, but also because I had an important realization. Us climbers are some of the luckiest people in the world, and here’s why; climbing takes us to places that “normal” people wouldn’t find by accident, beautiful valleys, stunning mountain ranges, and hidden communities of some of the most genuine people you will ever meet. Climbing locations tend to be off the beaten path, far from major tourist areas, and filled with people who exemplify the culture of the country. Climbing is not just about getting to the top, it’s about the journey and the experience. I encourage everyone who reads this to sit down and make your own top ten. Pick places that inspire you, look beautiful to you, or give you an excuse to climb in a place you have always wanted to visit. Once you’re done, share with us! We would love to hear where our followers want to go!

– Alek Pouliopoulos

NEM Director of Operations

I remember a time in middle school where my teachers referred to the United States as a melting pot, a place where people from all over the world could come together and share their culture with one another. In my opinion, Kalymnos is the melting pot of the climbing world.
For those who have never heard of Kalymnos, it is a small Greek island located in the south-eastern most region of the Greek Isles, closer to Istanbul than Athens. Originally, the people of Kalymnos lived quiet lives as sea sponge divers, collecting and selling valuable sponges found only by diving to great depths. In the early 1990’s European climbers on holiday noticed the large, overhanging limestone cliffs that covered the island, and wondered why in the world no one had ever climbed them. From here, the tourist industry on Kalymnos took off. Millions of people a year visit this little Mediterranean paradise to climb what has quickly become one of the world’s most renowned sport climbing areas.
After close to twenty four hours of travel which included a layover in Istanbul and a night in Athens, my climbing partner and I finally arrived on the island. We were immediately struck by the sheer beauty of the place. The waters surrounding the entire island are deep blue and calm, and the island itself is full of rugged and steep hills that lead to impressive and incredibly featured limestone walls. Tuffas and stalactites cover the steep and overhanging walls, while pockets and crimps cover the equally as challenging slabs. Every crag has views of the sea and nearby Telendos, a smaller island located a mile from Kalymnos.
The second thing my partner and I noticed was the slower pace of life. Having just seen the hustle and bustle of the Istanbul airport and downtown Athens, the relaxed feel to this place was certainly welcome. It was not uncommon to have a late start to the day, drink coffee for multiple hours, maybe do a little climbing, cool off in the ocean, climb some more, then have drinks and finally eat dinner at around 10pm.
I could sit here and describe in full detail every hold, feature and piece of beta for the incredible climbs we did (literally the best climbs I have ever done in my life), I could brag about my onsights or red points and discuss the grading and what crags are worth going to (all of them). Although the reason I went to Kalymnos was to climb, the climbing was not what stood out the most for me. What stood out the most was the culture of Kalymnos, and Greece in general.
The main climbing village of Kalymnos is called Massouri. The village itself is basically one mile of road located right on the sea, both sides of the street are jam packed with restaurants, cafes and apartments. On any given morning you can see shop owners or restaurant owners sitting in the shade of outdoor cafes drinking coffee and playing with their worry beads, and you are guaranteed to see them in the same seats later that day. The street itself is quiet except for the buzzing of scooters and the occasional car. While on the island my partner and I decided to eat in as many restaurants as possible. The food was hands down the most amazing I have ever eaten. Every night we had fresh seafood or lamb, feta cheese, fresh salads and pastries for dessert accompanied by Ouzo. You cannot go to Greece and not enjoy a glass (or half a bottle) of Ouzo with dinner. Speaking of things you can’t miss in Greece, you also can’t miss out on traditional Greek music and dancing. Many of the restaurants have live music at night complete with traditional Greek dancing and cheering.
What really made the experience however, were the people. The locals love the climbers that visit their quiet village every year. They love to hear where everyone is from and they love to share and swap climbing stories. If you try and speak to them in Greek, they give you a huge smile and sometimes a free dessert after you have finished your dinner. In the short time we were on Kalymnos we met and made friends with people from all over the world. We met climbers from London and enjoyed morning coffee with them while talking climbing world politics. We had dinner with Swedish and Israeli climbers and drinks with Austrians, Germans and Swiss. We even watched Greek dancing with another group of American’s we found.
This is why we travel. This is why we climb. Sure climbing is fun on its own, but climbing is also the common interests that brings all of these people together each year, and allows us to escape our sheltered lives in the United States and get out and experience not only the culture of the places we are visiting, but also the culture of the people we meet. Kalymnos is truly a melting pot, it brings together climbers from all walks of life and all ability levels and gives them the chance to share their stories and spend time together in a way that is completely unique to the island.

Kalymnos has always been at the top of my list of places to climb. On the plane ride home I realized that I had crossed number one off my list, so whats next? I put together the following top ten list of places I want to rock climb. Everyone has their top then, what’s yours?

Kalymnos, Greece
Patagonia, Argentina
Chamonix, France
Ceuse, France
Squamish, BC, Canada
The Bugaboos, Canada
Yosemite, California
Thailand
Grampians, Australia
Dolomites, Italy

– Alek, NEM Director of Operations/Guide